Paris Men’s Fashion Week wrapped up on January 21, 2024, after a vibrant display of creativity that highlighted the evolving identity of contemporary menswear. This season’s shows reflected a striking duality: a harmonious collision between timeless elegance and bold theatricality. Renowned fashion houses, emerging designers, celebrities, and fashion insiders converged in the French capital for what proved to be one of the most dynamic and diverse fashion weeks in recent memory.
Quiet Luxury from Hermès and AMI
Hermès and AMI set the tone early in the week, showcasing collections that leaned into subtle sophistication. Hermès, under the artistic direction of Véronique Nichanian, continued its tradition of refined masculinity, featuring tailored silhouettes in rich, tactile fabrics such as suede, cashmere, and fine wool. Muted tones—camel, deep navy, forest green—reinforced the narrative of quiet luxury, a trend that has gained traction among discerning consumers seeking timeless investment pieces over fleeting trends.
AMI, meanwhile, balanced contemporary Parisian flair with accessible elegance. Alexandre Mattiussi’s designs emphasized clean lines, layering, and tonal harmony. The collection was styled to evoke effortless city dressing—a concept rooted in confidence, not spectacle. These presentations affirmed that understated style, when executed with precision and craft, remains at the forefront of men’s fashion.
The Avant-Garde Edge: Sacai and WooYoungmi
In stark contrast, other designers embraced narrative-driven design and cultural fusion. Chitose Abe of Sacai drew inspiration from ancient Japanese warriors, resulting in a collection aptly dubbed “warrior chic.” Structured outerwear, layered tunics, and asymmetrical silhouettes in a monochrome palette created a look that was both futuristic and steeped in historical reference. Functional details like utility belts and harnesses reinforced the utilitarian ethos.
WooYoungmi, the trailblazing Korean designer, introduced “ParisSeoul,” a collection that celebrated the hybridization of East and West. Draped blazers, oversized coats, and flowing trousers offered a marriage of Western tailoring and Asian sensibility. Her designs reflected the growing global conversation in fashion—one that recognizes the interconnectedness of cultures and aesthetics.
Balmain’s Maximalist Comeback
The week’s most flamboyant moment came courtesy of Olivier Rousteing at Balmain. After a brief absence from the Paris menswear calendar, Balmain’s return was nothing short of electric. Rousteing presented a bold, high-octane collection featuring saturated hues—electric blue, crimson, gold—and extravagant embellishments. From jewel-encrusted jackets to baroque embroidery and metallic boots, the show exuded drama and decadence.
The climax of Balmain’s show was the appearance of supermodel Naomi Campbell, who walked the runway in a regal, sculptural coat that drew gasps from the audience. Her cameo underscored the brand’s celebration of legacy, glamour, and fearless self-expression.
A Star-Studded Front Row
Paris Men’s Fashion Week was not only a showcase of design but also a magnet for celebrity presence. Actor Jamie Dornan and musician Zayn Malik were among the prominent guests, adding star power to the already buzzing atmosphere. Their attendance highlighted the event’s cultural cachet, as Paris remains the global nucleus where fashion, entertainment, and influence intersect.
A Tale of Two Aesthetics
Ultimately, the January 2024 edition of Paris Men’s Fashion Week revealed an industry comfortable with contrast. On one hand, there is a yearning for permanence—clothing that speaks to craft, subtlety, and classic appeal. On the other, an unabashed celebration of theatricality and innovation—pieces designed to provoke, inspire, and defy convention. Both aesthetics coexist and flourish, speaking to a more nuanced vision of masculinity that allows space for elegance, rebellion, and self-expression.
