Milan Men’s Fashion Week, held from June 14 to 19, 2024, made a triumphant return, presenting an eclectic and energized Spring/Summer 2025 season that reaffirmed the Italian fashion capital’s central role in shaping global menswear. From household names like Moschino and Zegna to a new generation of avant-garde designers, the week offered a rich blend of spectacle, craftsmanship, and stylistic innovation.
While the absence of Valentino, currently undergoing leadership changes, marked a notable gap in the schedule, the week retained its momentum and prestige with high-caliber showcases, trend-defining aesthetics, and a celebration of Milan’s timeless creative spirit.
Moschino Opens with Color and Whimsy
The week launched with a vibrant statement from Moschino, which delivered a runway filled with eccentric prints, retro silhouettes, and playful tailoring. Known for its tongue-in-cheek take on fashion, the brand leaned into bold color blocking, graffiti-inspired motifs, and oversized suiting. Under new creative direction, Moschino reasserted its legacy of joyful rebellion while adapting to a post-pandemic appetite for freedom and self-expression through style.
Bright orange trenches, pop-art graphics, and mismatched accessories conveyed a message that fun is fashion-forward again—a sharp pivot from the somber minimalism of previous seasons. It was a powerful opening act that set the tone for a week of diversity and dynamism.
Zegna Closes with Sartorial Poetry
In contrast to Moschino’s exuberance, Zegna delivered a refined and contemplative finale, rooted in the house’s mastery of fabric and construction. Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori presented a collection steeped in earth tones, organic textures, and fluid tailoring, reaffirming the brand’s commitment to luxurious simplicity and environmental consciousness.
This season, Zegna continued its exploration of “new tailoring”, where relaxed suits, belted jackets, and monochromatic sets spoke to a clientele increasingly interested in quiet sophistication. With lightweight materials and deconstructed forms, the presentation reflected both timeless elegance and modern comfort, embodying the shift in menswear toward pieces that are as wearable as they are polished.
A Showcase of Emerging Talent
Beyond the giants, Milan Men’s Fashion Week also shined a spotlight on rising designers, many of whom brought sustainability, identity, and cultural commentary to the forefront. Newcomers such as Andrea Pompilio, Magliano, and Dhruv Kapoor challenged traditional codes with collections featuring gender-fluid tailoring, streetwear influences, and experimental textures.
These designers reinterpreted Italian fashion heritage through a globalized, Gen Z lens, presenting looks that incorporated distressed denim, layered knitwear, asymmetrical cuts, and eco-conscious materials. Their presence underscored a significant generational shift happening in Milan—a willingness to question legacy norms and embrace individualism.
Trends That Defined the Week
Several key themes emerged from the Spring/Summer 2025 runways:
- Relaxed tailoring: Unstructured blazers, wide-legged trousers, and elongated shirts emphasized ease over rigidity.
- Artistic expression: Paint-splatter prints, embroidered messages, and hand-dyed fabrics signaled a deeper emotional engagement with fashion.
- Sustainable design: Natural dyes, recycled fabrics, and minimalist silhouettes reinforced a growing commitment to environmentally responsible luxury.
- Gender-fluid aesthetics: Flowy fabrics, sheer layers, and traditionally feminine elements like draping and soft pastels redefined masculine dressing norms.
These trends reflect an industry—and audience—gravitating toward meaningful, versatile fashion that merges beauty with purpose.
Valentino’s Absence and the Road Ahead
One of the week’s more talked-about omissions was Valentino, which chose not to participate amid a leadership transition following the exit of Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli. The fashion house will instead present its next menswear offering in September 2024, sparking curiosity about the brand’s future direction. While their absence left a noticeable gap, it also provided an opportunity for other voices to rise.
Milan Remains a Global Style Capital
With its rich heritage and ever-evolving design language, Milan Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 successfully balanced legacy and innovation, proving that the city remains an indispensable force in global menswear. From the exuberant to the introspective, this season’s presentations captured the multidimensional nature of modern masculinity—and the industry’s expanding vision for what menswear can be.
Source: PAUSE Online – Milan Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2025 Coverage
